Siargao, a teardrop-shaped island located off the northeastern tip of Mindanao, is part of Surigao del Norte and is known as the Surfing Capital of the Philippines. It can be reached, among others, after two hours via fast craft from Surigao City or directly to the island via SeaAir flights from Manila or Asian Spirit places via Cebu to Surigao City. Or via big ferries from Cebu or land trips from various points in Mindanao.

Events held in La Union, Baler, Daet and Lanuza had women's heats to accommodate the growing number of females in the water. One of the youngest surfers in the competition used to register in the Under-18 Boys, or Grommet Division, until a women's class was finally established. It was not until recently that women have grown steadily into the lineup. Although most women start out as long boarders, there are actually a few who make it to the short board level. Among these are Manet Alcala and Nildie Blancada from Siargao, Mocha Edusme from Daet and Daisy Valdez, Marie Aquino and myself from La Union. Other girls - who come as far as Lanuza, Pagudpod and Baler - rip hard, too. However, only six of us found ourselves in the lineup at Cloud 9 during that fateful event.

Marie and I, having been invited to the Siargao Girls International Surfing Competition, were here for the first time. Our guide, Angelo Villanueva, another La Union local, was with us to show us, girls, how things were done in Cloud 9, General Luna, Siargao.

LESSON 1. Never surf Cloud 9 at low tide.

It was our very first day on the island. We were billeted, the night before, at Cabuntog, the resort owned by the former town mayor. As we got off the habal-habal in front of the walk that leads all the way to the tower fronting Cloud 9, we were pleased to know no one was out in the lineup. The waves were 4-6 feet with an occasional 7 thrown out every 15 minutes. And they were glassy. We took a deep breath and attempted to begin the long trek to the tower when Angelo warned us to not go out. As the days passed, we would see the wisdom behind those words as several locals and non-locals would emerge from the crowded lineup and display their battle scars -- and during high tide at that.

As we stood under the coconut trees deciding what to do, a boy of 14 came and directed us to another spot along the beach. Knowing we couldn't surf Cloud 9 that morning and small waves are better than none, we followed Mark, the young local to a grassy compound, about 20 meters away. And there, breaking in front of us, was, the Jacking Horse.

This spot is one of the last breaks that catches swells in the long line of reefs extending all the way from Cloud 9. There it was, peak after peak, Tuason Point in the far distance, Cloud 9, Quiksilver, Little Tahiti and Jacking Horse. It was like a domino effect of waves. When one would go off, so would the next and the next and the next.

We spent the entire morning dropping into one of the fastest but unsung waves of Siargao. It has a steep drop, a short tube ride and a wall that reaches all the way to the shoulder of what we call My Little Pony, the Horse's little cousin. It didn't jack but rolled smooth waves into the cove and provided long, sweet rides for the long boarder during high tide.

Brunch was a small affair at Marife's Canteen. Situated at the junction leading to a half dozen foreigner-owned resorts, it is a spot that caters to Filipino and foreigner palates. You can order from a large menu: from mango chicken curry to spaghetti carbonara. I, for one, got myself a cheeseburger with everything on it for only P85. If you wanted to go the cheaper, more Filipino route, there was another eatery right beside it where pancit could be bought for P10 and chicken adobo for P25.

After a much needed rest period, we finally ventured into Cloud 9. It was a relief to discover that the tide had come in and the locals were out strutting their stuff. As we gazed longingly at the long, solid and heavy walls of the Philippines' most infamous surf break, we were aware that the cuts and gashes we had seen on several surfers were not acquired anywhere else but here.

LESSON 2. Never surf Cloud 9 when you're not your normal, sober self.

The waves were coming in overhead sets and jacking up to the point of double. Cloud 9's peak is a long heavy drop to the bottom, a barrel section and if you pulled it off, a spot where you could launch good aerial tricks. We were stoked just to watch the hardy locals pit barrel after barrel, completing long, almost perfect rides.

Gathering our boards, our leashes and our courage, Marie and I found our way into the channel where it was easier to paddle out. We could hear the crashing sets in the distance and our heartbeats in our throats. Before I could lose my nerve or whatever was left of it, I paddled into a medium-sized wave, lost my footing and tumbled into one of the heaviest wipeouts of my surfing career. Pulling on my leash, I realized my board was broken in half, so I half-swam, half-floated to the tower. I barely had time to catch my breath when the locals cheered, "Welcome to Cloud 9!"

As guests - including those from La Union, Daet and Siargao -- however, we were given an official welcome party at Paseo de Cabuntog that evening.

For competitors and other VIPs, the beer was free. It took only a few rounds to make us, girls, tipsy and laugh superficially at the eccentricities of Cloud 9 and its die-hard surfers. The company of locals put us to shame for despite the fact that they were whiling the night away in search of drinks and consuming them, all they could think about was how big Cloud 9 was going to get the next day. Deep inside, we were quailing at the thought of competing in otherwise pristine, but difficult conditions. As virgins to the surf break, we were still enthralled by Cloud 9's majestic violence. But typical Filipino mentality, we still had our pride and with a few beers in us, managed to save face in the midst of the boys' growing agitation. I felt like I was in a job interview discussing the intricacies of the Spur-Piston match without having seen the damn game. My beer-glazed mind was screaming: Smile! Nod! Pretend you appreciate being wiped out ten times over and actually look forward to it!

I woke up the following day with a barely manageable hangover. Luckily, Cloud 9 was deserted, as most of the other breaks were. Clamoring that it was low tide, Marie and I proceeded to another morning session at Jacking Horse - the easy way out.

It's quite difficult concentrating on competing especially when you're a newbie to a surf spot. The first thing on your mind is to have fun, surf a few good waves, and meet the locals. As with most surf spots, only the locals know its secrets and the only time they share this vital information with you is when their minds are half-filled with an alcohol-ridden smog.

It was in this condition that a few guys came over sharing their so-called Cloud 9 secrets. "Always go to the peak, it's an easy drop compared to the shoulder; stand up before the wave breaks or it will jack you right out of it; the waves break further out in every set, so paddle to your left, NEVER to the right, etcetera

With the competition date drawing closer, we witnessed more of the serene quiet countryside. We were getting more comfortable on the habal-habal, more at home with the locals and, more importantly, our nervous tension in Cloud 9 had abated to a meek resignation of our fates.

Lesson 3. Never back out, always commit yourself.

For all of us, girls, Cloud 9 is not an easy wave. Despite being named after the chocolate bar, the waves are as sweet as candy is to the diabetic. This was the first competition that brought us to its peak. In fact, during the Annual Siargao International Competition, women's heats were always relegated to Quiksilver, a more manageable wave, fast but not as heavy and dangerous as Cloud 9. In the same manner, the final heat for the ladies in Baler in Aurora, would be held at the Sabang Beachbreak while the men would continue on to Cemento Reef, a barreling A-frame wave with a reef that sucks up the water and leaves the reef dry. Only three years ago were the women permitted at the lineup in Cemento.

Many things have progressed in women's surfing and one of these is the primary acknowledgement that there are indeed women who surf - shortboards and dangerous waves. What drives us? The adrenaline rush, the travel, the competition, perhaps even the search for the perfect wave. It's the same thing that drives Tim Duncan to the basket.

But it's true, after the premiere of Blue Crush in Manila with all the surfers, posers and wannabes, the surf scene has definitely changed for the better. More girls, families, even parents have recognized that surfing is, undeniably, a sport - not just a lifestyle. And it is this spirit of competition that draws us, six women, together.

As a visitor, a tourist and a surfer, Siargao is a turning point. Once you get there, you can never go back -- simply because other surf spots pale in comparison. Just like paddling into one of the bigger waves of Cloud 9, there is no bailing option. There is no time to think twice, no time to toss your board away, no time to stare dumbly at the two-story drop you have just begun. You have to commit yourself, if not, you find yourself in the midst of a washing machine set on turbo mode. And that is just the beginning.

The Island of Siargao lures you with its world-class waves yet captivates you with its tranquility among the coconut trees, its white sandy shores to which even Boracay cannot hold a candle, its unsung surf spots and its beautiful people.

Explaining Siargao is like describing a perfect wave. Every surfer knows it does exist and finding it surpasses the quest for the Holy Grail. It comes perhaps once in every thousand waves, perhaps once in every 10 surf trips, perhaps once in every four years. It haunts you with increasing frequency until you're ready to toss away your, job, your lifestyle and even your future. Until it comes. And then the quest starts again.

The writer finished second runner-up to Nildie Blancada of the host island and Daisy Valdez of La Union in the 1st Siargao Girls' International Surfing Competition. Manet Alcala, also of Siargao, was third runner-up.

source:
Visayan Daily Star  

http://www.visayandailystar.com/2005/Starlife/2005/September/18/feature3.htm