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Home arrow Articles arrow The Siargao Siren
The Siargao Siren PDF Print E-mail
Written by smile - cebu pacific airlines   
Wednesday, 01 August 2007

 THE SIARGAO SIREN

ImageIN ANTICIPATION OF THE ANNUAL SURFING CONTEST, MAIDA C. PINEDA VISITS THE ISLAND FAMOUS FOR EXCITEMENT AND AN INTERNATIONALLY ACCLAIMED RESORT. PHOTOGRAPHY BY SCOTT A. WOODWARD

It was eight years ago that I first heard about the remote island of Siargao. It is a 30 by 25 km island off the north easterly tip of Mindanao, best known for surf. When the prestigious Billabong

 ImageCloud Nine Invitational Open takes place from September 23-30, the world’s best surfers flock here for the biggest and most prestigious competition in the Philippines. It has been an annual tradition for 13 years and this year, 44 international names have been invited from Australia, Hawaii, the USA, Japan, Indonesia and Europe. Eight local surfers will also participate – quite an achievement for an island that’s barely a speck on the world map.

INTRIGUING CONTRADICTIONS

 ImageNot only is Siargao attracting surfer dudes, its seemingly incongruous luxury hotel, Pansukian Tropical Resort, has also won accolades from the influential Condé Nast Traveler Magazine. Conceived, designed and owned by Frenchman Nicolas Rambeau, a former lawyer from Paris, Pansukian gives Siargao an intriguing counterbalance to the laid-back surfers who come for the event and those who’ve made the island home.

Siargao’s accomplishments suggest there is something in the water. So in pursuit of answers to Siargao’s success – and perhaps a few other things too (where better for a bit of soul searching than a tropical hideaway?) – I set off to see if the siren call that had intrigued me for eight years would offer some insights into happiness.

Pansukian is an enticing place to start. Its five villas and three garden cottages are located in General Luna, overlooking the Pacific Ocean. A sandbar in the sea four kilometers opposite, called Pansukian Island, gives the resort its name and there is a 20 hectare mangrove inland. The ambiance is immediately relaxing with the design epitomizing luxurious tropical living without being pretentious. Each villa has a veranda with a hammock and a creamy white day bed draped with chiffon and Thai silk cushions. Where possible, Rambeau and the designers have tried to use local products, so all the hardwood floors are from nearby Bucas Grande Island. And wherever you wander, whether by the pandan plants in the garden or around the other villas, the watchful eyes of strategically positioned Buddha statues are never far away.

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SEARCHING FOR PARADISE

ImageNicolas Rambeau first came to the island in 1989, flying over the Philippines on a private plane while looking for his dream destination. Then it was virtually unknown to tourists and Rambeau was greeted by the mayor telling him he was the first visitor in three years, with only missionaries and a handful of foreigners coming to the island previously. Enchanted, Rambeau bought a 13 hectare coconut plantation on the southern strip of the island before giving up his successful legal practice in Paris, packing his bags and moving here for good in 1995. It took the lawyer only three hours to draw out his plans for the development but three years to execute his dream. He paid attention to every single detail, from providing books, board games, a pool table and even strategically placing buckets of water to rinse sandy feet.

ImageWhile surfers are well aware of Pansukian and its lovely setting, this exclusive resort attracts a different crop of visitors. CEOs of corporations in Manila reward their top managers with team building activities in paradise and the capital’s business tycoons have been spotted here with their yachts in tow. It’s good for romance too: Filipino and European honeymoon couples and those rekindling the passion in their marriage blissfully spend a couple of nights in Pansukian’s tropical luxury.

As well as taking in the surroundings, try exploring the mangroves at high tide by kayak. The stillness of the lagoon’s water mirrors the lush greens of the coconut trees, refreshingly cool and soothing. The peace is only interrupted by the flight of a gorgeous blue kingfisher, the twittering of birds and the quacking of ducks.

So does Pansukian offer happiness? Just maybe. Walking back to the beach I was greeted by Napoleon, Nicolas’ playful Great Dane, and a magical rainbow painted in the sky.

SURFING ON CLOUD NINE

ImageNext stop was to check out the surfing action on Cloud Nine. It’s simple to assume the name refers to the blissful state achieved riding waves, but Gerry Degan, the Australian owner of the Sagana resort, co-ordinator of the Billabong competition and perhaps the friendliest guy in this surfing haven, explains the real reason. Cloud Nine first gained international fame in 1992 when American photographer John Callahan featured it in a magazine. During his photo assignment he had only bottles of mineral water and Cloud Nine chocolate bars for sustenance.

But credit must be given to modern day adventurer Mike Boyam from California, who first discovered this surfing destination in the late 80s.

Former graphic designer Degan vacationed in Siargao in 1995. He and his wife Susan stayed for a month and fell in love with the island, returning the following year to buy land. In 1997, he, Susan and Japanese surfer Naoki Nakata opened Sagana Resort. They now spend eight months of the year in Cloud Nine, returning to Sydney for the Australian summer.

Up to 30 surfers catch the waves on busy days and at this time of year a gang of five “Duyan Dwellers” can be found – surfer dudes with dreadlocks and a suitably laid-back approach to life. These four Filipinos from Cebu and Leyte, and their Canadian friend, Rob Bugoy, sleep on hammocks and follow the surf. In Siargao, a surfer worth his salt knows there is no other way to live.

So what makes Cloud Nine so amazing? “It has the perfect barrel,” Gerry explains, “which is the ultimate surfing experience.”

The barrel (or tube, formed when the wave is breaking) is what attracts surfers of all ages and lifestyles from around the world. Backpackers, businessmen, young professionals and family men congregate here. One of Gerry’s guests was a 56-year-old Hawaiian surfer on business in Manila who took time out to visit Cloud Nine.

ISLAND LIFE

ImageFor beautiful beaches, check out some of the nearby islands with a half-day tour led by Jing, from Virac, Catanduanes. The first stop is Guyam, a tiny white island with no inhabitants, navigable on foot in five minutes.

Next, Dako is home to a 300-strong fishing community, where local children rush to mingle and play with visitors. This island is great for snorkeling and surfing for beginners.

But most memorable is the familiar Pansukian, or Naked Island. This pristine white sandbar shifts with the seasons and tide and you won’t be able to resist a dip into the crystal clear waters. On our visit, there was a picnic with locals celebrating a birthday.

ImageBrian White, an American from San Diego, California, joined our island tour. A surfer for 20 years, he was traveling to Fiji, Australia and the Philippines with his wife Mia and two-year-old son Keenan. They planned a stop-over in the Philippines to attend Mia’s family reunion, but after reading about the great waves in Cloud Nine, White couldn’t resist bringing his surfboard.

“It’s better than Fiji! It’s just amazing the way the waves break. Here you can paddle everywhere to catch a wave, unlike Fiji, where you have to take a 30 or 40 minute boat ride.”

FOOD FOR LIFE

Image“And the food in Sagana is fabulous,” interjects Mia. She’s right. We enjoyed remarkable meals such as Seafood Mezze of sesame tempura garfish with ginger mirin dipping sauce, calamari with sweet sesame dipping sauce and mud crab, green papaya and vegetable salad with garlic rice. Yellow fin tuna tataki served with shredded vegetable and glass-noodle salad and ponzu dressing is further enhanced by the freshness of just-caught tuna.
The man responsible is Glenn, or “Roy” as the locals call him, a semi-retired chef in his mid-thirties. He had been working as a chef in Sydney’s eastern suburbs for 12 years before his first trip to Siargao in 2002. He now spends at least four months of the year here, surfing and conjuring up Asian inspired dishes with a new menu every night. The rest of the year he searches the best waves. Next stops: Sri Lanka and Indonesia. It’s all very Point Break.

ImageRoy’s buddy, James (“Jim Boy”), originally from Edmonton, Canada, is also a full-time surfer and part-time chef. He works four months of the year as a chef in Canada and spends the rest of his time in Siargao, after falling in love with the island and one of her ladies. He is now building a home here.

Eight years after learning about Siargao, I’ve discovered that success is not in the water and there is no formula to finding happiness. But as the people I met prove, when you do find it, don’t let it go. And Siargao’s surf is a place you’re likely to have fun looking.

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How to get there:

Cebu Pacific flies from Manila to Butuan daily. From Butuan airport, take a multi-cab (PHP15 per person) to the bus terminal. A three-hour bus ride on Bachelor Express to Surigao is PHP 150 for air con, (PHP120 for non-air con) and buses run every 20-30 minutes. From Surigao station take a multi-cab (PHP7.50) to your hotel.

The Tavern Hotel is the closest to the pier (only a five minute walk). The first fast ferryboat, M/V City of Lucena, is at 9am (PHP360 one way to Surigao). At Dapa, habalhabal motorcycles are available for PHP150 to Cloud Nine Resorts.

THINGS TO DO:

For boat trips:
You can arrange boat trips to nearby islands through your resorts or contact Jing (tel: +63 091 0259 6493, This e-mail address is being protected from spam bots, you need JavaScript enabled to view it ), PHP1,500 for a half-day tour of four of the following islands: Guyam, Dako, and Naked Island (Pansukian). You can also arrange whole day trips to Bucas Grande (90 minutes away from Cloud Nine), where you can kayak through Sohoton cave’s tunnels and lagoons – there’s even a jellyfish lake and rainforest canopy to explore.

For deep sea fishing:
Resorts may arrange deep-sea fishing expeditions with expert fisherman Junior Gonzales. Rates depend on the type of boat and fishing trip you wish to experience. Contact Junior on +63 0920 772-8875 for details.

For surf lessons:
Contact Hippy Surf (+63 0928 744-0485), who charge PHP500 per hour for surf lesson, instructor, rash vest, booties and surfboard rental.

Where to stay:

Tavern Hotel in Surigao:
Borromeo Street, Surigao City, tel: (0) 86231 7300, www.surigaoislands.com/tavernhotel, rooms start at PHP1,200.

Pansukian Tropical Resort:
tel: 920 901 2072, www.pansukian.com, rooms from US$130 (PHP6,000) per person based on three sharing.

Sagana Beach Resort:
tel: 919 809 5769, www.cloud9surf.com Packages rates are US$60 (PHP2,700) per person/per night for a minimum of two people, plus meals.

Q&A with Gerry Degan, organizer of the Billabong Cloud Nine Invitational Open 2007

Image1) Is this the biggest competition in the Philippines?

Yes, the biggest, most prestigious and the richest. It was started by Quicksilver and this year is sponsored by Billabong.

2) How does it compare to other international surfing competitions?

Quite favorably, as exhibited by the quality of international surfers begging to join the contest.

3) What can visitors expect from the competition?

Unbelievable surfing, in particular tube riding – the best in the business.

4) What do people do when they’re not surfing?

Island hop, fish, snorkel, swim, drink, eat.

5) Do you think tourism has taken off in recent years?

Isolation makes it a little difficult to get to. But the number of resorts has doubled in the last five years.

6) How do you see Siargao developing in ten years?

The local government is managing and enforcing development guidelines, helping to keep the island clean and green. Hopefully this will continue and we won’t see the problems Boracay has had with rubbish and sewage issues.

7) Do you think Siargao leads the way for the surfing community in the Philippines?

Without question, we are known as the surfing capital in this country. Other surfing areas are quietly catching up though and surfing will become one of the biggest tourist attractions this country has to offer before to long.

 

source: http://www.cebusmile.com/2007/08/01/the-siargao-siren/  

 

 
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